Ateni Sioni

Why visit

The name Sioni comes from Mount Zion in Jerusalem. The church was built of fine, pale stone in the early 7th century and follows the plan of Jvari, near Mtskheta: four rounded arms around a central dome. On its outer walls are carved reliefs of animals and hunting scenes, and old inscriptions. Inside, the walls and dome are covered with paintings from the late 11th century, with scenes from the Gospels and portraits of saints.

What to see

• The frescoes: look up into the dome and around the apses for the paintings, some of the best of their period in Georgia.
• The carvings: walk around the outside to find the animal reliefs and old inscriptions on the façades.
• The valley: the setting is lovely, with vineyards, fruit trees and the ruins of a fortress on the cliffs above.

Wine

The Ateni valley is known for Atenuri, a light, crisp white wine made from local grapes such as Chinuri and Goruli Mtsvane. Some family wineries and guesthouses in the valley offer tastings. Read our guide to food and wine in Shida Kartli.

Tips

• Ateni Sioni is an active church. Dress modestly, and women should cover their hair; scarves are often available at the door.
• The frescoes are fragile. Photography with flash is not allowed, and sometimes no photos at all.
• There is no regular bus from Gori. A taxi takes about 20 minutes.
• Read our guide to the churches and monasteries of Shida Kartli.