The churches and monasteries of Shida Kartli

Kartli was the heart of the Christian kingdom of Georgia, and its churches show the whole history of Georgian architecture, from the 7th century to the golden age of Queen Tamar. Many are in quiet villages and wooded gorges, with few visitors. Here are the best, from east to west.

Samtavisi Cathedral

Samtavisi, near Igoeti, was completed in 1030 and is famous for its east façade, decorated with a great carved cross and delicate arches. It is just off the highway from Tbilisi, so it is the easiest to visit.

Ertatsminda Cathedral

This 13th-century church of golden stone stands in the middle of the village of Ertatsminda, south of Kaspi. It is dedicated to Saint Eustathius of Mtskheta and has finely carved windows and façades.

Kvatakhevi Monastery

At the end of a wooded gorge in the Trialeti hills, Kvatakhevi is a working monastery whose church dates from the 12th and 13th centuries. It was damaged during Timur’s invasions in the 14th century and later restored. The road through the forest is beautiful in autumn.

Rkoni Monastery

Rkoni is the most remote of all, in the forest of the Tedzami valley. You reach it across a single stone arch over the river, one of the most photographed bridges in Georgia. The last part of the road is rough, so come with a driver or a sturdy car.

Ateni Sioni

Ateni Sioni, 10 km south of Gori, was built in the early 7th century on the model of Jvari at Mtskheta. Its 11th-century frescoes are some of the finest in Georgia, and the valley around it is full of vineyards.

Kintsvisi Monastery

Near Kareli, the brick church of Kintsvisi holds early 13th-century paintings, including portraits of Queen Tamar, her father and her son, and a famous angel in brilliant blue.

Tsromi Church

In a village near Khashuri, Tsromi was built in 626–634. It was the first Georgian church whose dome rests on four free-standing pillars, a plan that later churches followed. Fragments of its original mosaic are now in the Georgian National Museum in Tbilisi.

How to visit

• Dress modestly: long trousers for men, a long skirt and a headscarf for women. Scarves are often provided.
• Be respectful: these are working churches. Keep quiet during services, and ask before taking photos.
• Plan transport: apart from Samtavisi and Ateni, most are hard to reach without a car. A driver for the day from Gori or Tbilisi is the easiest way.
• Bring small change: for candles and donations.