Where to stay
Stay in Gori for the sights and transport, in a family guesthouse in the Ateni valley for vineyards and home cooking, in the pine-scented resort of Surami on the way west, or in Tbilisi to see the region on day trips.
The areas
Most centralBelow the fortress
Small hotels, guesthouses and apartments near the fortress, the Stalin Museum and the bus station, with restaurants and shops close by. The best base for Uplistsikhe, Ateni and the churches west of the city.
Best for: First-timers, public transport users and short stays
CountrysideVineyards and orchards
Family guesthouses in the villages of the Tana river valley, 10 to 15 km south of Gori, often with home-cooked dinners and their own wine. Quiet, green and close to Ateni Sioni, but you will need a car or taxi.
Best for: Couples, wine lovers and slow travellers
Mountain resortPine air and fortress views
Surami is a small resort town in the hills at the western end of the region, with guesthouses and holiday homes among the pines. Khashuri, next door, is a transport hub with trains and buses to Borjomi and western Georgia.
Best for: Road trippers and travellers heading to Borjomi
Big-city baseDay trips in every direction
Georgia’s capital has the widest choice of hotels, restaurants and tours, and Gori is about an hour away. Stay in Tbilisi if you want to see Shida Kartli on day trips and combine it with Mtskheta, Kakheti and Kazbegi.
Best for: Day-trippers, families and longer stays
Gori has a handful of small and mid-range hotels and apartments in the centre, close to the fortress and the museum. They are simple but comfortable, and good value compared with Tbilisi.
Georgian guesthouses are often the highlight of a trip. You stay in a family home, usually with breakfast, and some offer dinner with home-made wine and chacha. They are found in Gori, the Ateni valley and Surami.
If you prefer one base for your whole trip, stay in Tbilisi and visit Shida Kartli on a day trip. You will have more hotels and restaurants to choose from, but more time on the road.
Prices in Shida Kartli are low by European standards. Rooms are easy to find for most of the year, but book ahead for guesthouses at harvest time and in Surami during the summer holidays.
Good to know
Stay in Gori for the most choice and the easiest transport, in a guesthouse in the Ateni valley for countryside and home-made wine, in Surami if you are heading west to Borjomi, or in Tbilisi if you want to see the region on day trips.
Not for Gori, Uplistsikhe and Ateni, which you can reach by marshrutka, train and taxi. A car, or a driver for the day, makes it much easier to see the churches of Kaspi, Kintsvisi and Rkoni, where there is little or no public transport.
Yes. Family guesthouses are one of the best ways to see Georgia. Many include breakfast, and some serve dinner with their own wine. Book ahead, as rooms are few, and expect simple, homely comfort.
For most of the year, a few days to a week ahead is enough in Gori. Book earlier for guesthouses in the Ateni valley at harvest time in September and October, and for Surami in the summer holidays.
Plan your Shida Kartli trip
Once you have a base, compare day trips, private tours and wine tastings.