Uplistsikhe

Why visit

Uplistsikhe is one of the oldest towns in Georgia. It stood on a trade route through the heart of the ancient kingdom of Kartli, and in its prime, before Christianity came in the 4th century, it was a great religious centre with pagan temples cut into the rock. It lost ground to Mtskheta and later Tbilisi, but grew again when Arabs held Tbilisi in the 8th to 10th centuries. The Mongol raids finally emptied it. What remains is a strange and beautiful landscape of caves, steps and streets above the river.

What to see

• The main street: a road worn into the rock that climbs from the lower gate to the top of the town.
• The great halls: large rooms with carved ceilings that imitate wooden beams, some thought to have been temples.
• The theatre: a hall with a vaulted ceiling and stepped seats, cut into the cliff.
• Wine cellars and pharmacy: rooms with storage pits for wine and grain, and niches once used for medicines, according to tradition.
• The church on top: a brick basilica from the 9th–10th centuries, known as the Prince’s Church, with views over the river and the plain.
• The tunnel: a secret passage that led down to the river, so the town could get water during a siege. You can walk through part of it on the way out.

Getting there

There is no regular public transport to the site. Take a taxi from Gori, about 20 minutes, and ask it to wait, or join a day trip from Tbilisi. By car, follow the highway west from Tbilisi and turn off at the signs before Gori. Read our guide to visiting Uplistsikhe from Tbilisi.

Tips

• Wear shoes with good grip. The rock is smooth and slippery, especially when wet, and there are few railings.
• There is little shade. In summer, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon and carry water.
• Combine Uplistsikhe with Gori in our one-day itinerary.